Tuesday, 1 April 2014

Pondhead Inclosure

Waterside Natural History Society visit Pondhead inclosure Following our recent presentation on the history of the New Forest we were able to expand our knowledge with a visit to Pondhead inclosure near Lyndhurst. The link with history was not intended when our programme was arranged and it was also a coincidence that we met Dave Dibden shortly after our arrival. Dave has been appointed by the Forestry Commision to look after Pondhead inclosure and he was happy to go through the history and management of the area. Pondhead inclosure includes a large part of the ‘Lyndhurst Old Park’. This was formed by the Plantaganet King Edward 1in 1291 and became to be regarded as the first park in a forest. The Plantaganets had war in their genes. They fought against the French King, went on the Crusades and bashed the Barons in this country. The Queen and Princes each had their own armies and in the periods between wars they fought each other. In spite of this, or maybe because of it, they managed to introduce common law to the country by publishing the Magna Carta. In this area they also produced the ‘Charter of the Forest’ which specified the land ownership and gave commoners the right to live off the land instead of being hung on it. The name Plantaganet derives from ‘planta genista’ referring to the sprig of Broom that supporters wore in their hats. We came across a plaque at the side of the path which was erected in 1979 when a stand of Oak trees was planted to commemorate the nine hundredth anniversary of the formation of the New Forest. The forest was created as a Royal Hunting Ground by William 1 in 1079 . Other historical evidence of Lyndhurst Old Park is the Park Pale. This consisted of two man made embankments with a wooden pale fence on the top that gradually came together in a narrow neck. Deer were chased into the wide opening and shot for sport by huntsmen waiting at the neck. The wooden fence has long since rotted away but the embankment remains and can be seen running along the road side of Matley Ridge before it turns to cross the road opposite Pondhead Farm. The earthworks have deteriorated over the years and are dwarfed by the ridge but thousands of people must have walked along the ridge path without realising that history runs a few yards away. The intention of the Forestry Commision at the moment is to return Pondhead inclosure to a working forest and to be commercially sustainable. Charcoal is to be produced and woodland products such as besoms and clothes pegs manufactured and sold. This is a commendable project and Dave Dibden deserves all the support he can get. The woodland in Pondhead inclosure is a mixture of Oak, Beech and coppiced Hazel. The Hazel is allowed to grow for about seven years before being chopped back to the ground and the sticks used for charcoal or garden supports. The Hazel then regrows and the cycle continues. We were fortunate to enjoy warm sunny spring weather for our visit in March but we had difficulty finding a parking spot near Boltons Bench and when we returned in the middle of the afternoon cars had parked all along the access roads. Nevertheless we did not have to walk far into the forest before the only noise was that of the church bells in Lyndhurst. There are few signs of spring in the forest at the moment. Celandines are the only ground flowers but in the tree canopy Blackthorn blossom and Pussy Willow cover the bushes. Pussy Willow is used instead of palm on Palm Sunday as this is not available in northern Europe. Many of the tree leaf buds are swelling and the Beech buds are turning pink. Bluebells are not yet in flower but the green pointed leaf shoots cover the ground in parts of Pondhead inclosure. The recent wet weather has been good news for mosses and the ditches and embankments at the side of paths are covered in a variety of green shades of moss. There are many varieties of moss but there are basically three types. These are the branched and unbranched types found in the woodland together with the Sphagnum mosses found in bogs and water courses. Bracken dies back in the winter but other ferns remain green and can be seen among the mosses. Polypody fern can also be found above head height on the branches of trees such as Oak. Our walk started at the cemetery car park near Boltons Bench and we entered Pondhead inclosure at the north eastern corner. At Clayhill we took a left turn to walk along Beechen Lane and followed the wide path almost to Denny Lodge. Turning left again we eventually reached the Beaulieu road which we crossed and turned left to walk along Matley Ridge back to the car park. A distance of about five miles took us at least four hours which gives some indication of the leisurely pace of our walk. The warm sunny weather with no wind made it a pleasure to be outdoors. Our indoor meeting for March was an illustrated sound recording of ‘Spring Birdsong’ by Brian Harrison. The format was in the form of a light-hearted quiz in which the recording of a bird call was played and we were invited to guess the identity of the bird. If it was guessed correctly the image of the bird was shown on the screen. Brian has spent many years perfecting the recording of different bird calls in the New Forest and Gordon Small who provided the pictures specialises in photography to a very high standard. The evening turned out to be both informative and entertaining. It was interesting to learn for instance that the longest continuous recording by Brian of birdsong was forty five minutes by a Skylark whilst on the wing. The member of the audience who guessed ‘Robin’ for every birdsong was delighted to get one answer correct.

Saturday, 18 May 2013

Holbury Manor Park & Warren Copse

Holbury Manor Park & Warren Copse On the evening of 15th May we had a walk round Holbury Manor Park and Warren Copse. Our first challenge was to find the car park situated off Holbury Drove. We eventually located this small car park tucked away opposite Depedene Close and entered Manor Park on foot. Manor Park is the site of a medieval monastic grange granted to Beaulieu Abbey in 1312 which existed until dissolution. This was replaced by post medieval houses the latest of which was destroyed by fire in 1976. The site now holds a house divided into flats built in the late 1980’s. A moat and fish ponds are the only remnants of the ancient monastic grange. The parkland is now maintained as a recreational area and wildlife reserve for the surrounding area. Entry from the car park is into a grassland area with mown paths to encourage wild flowers on the uncut meadow. We turned left to enter the wooded area of Warren Copse. This ancient woodland has been cleared of debris and opened out to reveal the forest floor. At the time of our walk bluebells were in flower and covered many of the cleared areas of woodland; a living testimony of conservation work. Many of the old beech trees had recently come into leaf with their pristine lime green and unset leaves. Large oak trees towered above the forest floor already well into leaf compared to the just opening leaves of the ash. Oak before Ash and we will have a splash being the better option to a soak. We occasionally came across small trees covered in blossom with some doubt as to their identity but on reflection they were probably Crab Apple since the blossom had a slight pink tinge and are known to grow in the area. We eventually came out of Warren Copse on to the Rollestone road and turned right to walk along the road into the New Forest National Park. Shortly after passing under electricity wires we turned off the road into a wood and walked alongside a field. The wood eventually changed to open moorland and we followed a feint path across in the same direction. This path eventually took us into Green Rollestone Copse and the path continued along ever more muddy and trampled stretches until we came across a pound used for gathering ponies during the annual drift. Although this was part of a public right of way the gates were locked shut but we were able to untie a metal section in order to walk through. We entered a rough track called appropriately Roughdown lane which we followed round to the left and into a small hamlet called Roughdown. Some of the houses were obviously very old as they were single story very small dwellings with small windows and corrugated iron roofs but one or two had been replaced by modern out of town buildings. At the end of the houses we turned left and walked along a tree lined path at the edge of Rollestone Copse until we emerged from the wood at the entrance to a private estate and turned right to walk down a small country lane. The verges of this lane were covered in bluebells and white stitchwort which must have gladdened the heart of any passing Scotsman. On a warm still evening as the sun was dipping below the horizon the walk along this country lane proved very pleasant indeed. We recognised the field on our left as the one we had walked along the other side on our outward journey: not least because of the large electricity pylon in the middle. At the end of the lane we crossed over Rollestone road and re-entered Warren Copse. We took a more westerly path through the copse almost alongside Park Lane and eventually came to the small fishing lakes of Holbury Manor Park. Our path then took us across the meadow back to the car park from which we had started. This walk turned out to be interesting and varied and could be so at any time of the year but probably well worth another visit in June.

Friday, 9 November 2012

Ash trees and fungus

Ash Trees and Fungus Fungal spores are all around us. We live in a world of fungal spores. Some are good and some are bad. Some we have learned to live with and some are still being modified. Although we can kill fungal spores in enclosed spaces we cannot eliminate them from the world around us. Plants and trees growing in our countryside are affected by fungi just as much as ourselves. Trees have developed a symbiotic relationship with fungi such that fungi help tree roots to take up nutrients from the soil. Different types of tree use fungi in this way to a greater or lesser extent and it so happens that Ash trees are one of the few that do not rely on fungi to take up nutrients. Mature trees are much admired in the countryside and great weight is given to the largest or the oldest tree but apart from looking good do they provide a useful function? To put it to the Darwinian test do mature trees meet the survival of the fittest criteria? When walking in the countryside we are as likely to see a mature tree blown down by the wind as a young sapling eaten by a deer. The point is should we be trying to save our mature Ash trees or let them be killed by fungus disease. My own opinion is that we should let the fungus disease take its own course. We cannot hope to stop the fungal spores spreading even over a small area. Even if we did manage to contain a small area it is still susceptible to be reinfected from another place perhaps hundreds of miles away. The best course of action would be to identify those trees that are resistant to this particular fungus and develop saplings from its seed for future colonisation of infected areas. Ash trees are naturally vigorous and could reach a good height in less than ten years.

Saturday, 9 June 2012

A Cottage in Norfolk

A cottage in Norfolk Travelled from home on Saturday 02/06/12. Unfortunately this happened to coincide with a) half term, b) Queens Jubilee and c) A double bank holiday. Fortunately most people were going in the opposite direction to ourselves but it was still quite busy. We passed an ancient campervan going up the M3 with a ‘for sale’ sign in the back window. Shortly after our clever satnav detected a hold up where the M3 joins the M25 and directed us off the M3 at junction 3 and back on to the M25 just before Heathrow. We had just got on the M25 again when we overtook the same campervan in the inside lane. Perhaps the satnav was not so clever after all. It also detected a holdup from the M25 on to the M11 and directed us up the A1. This time we ignored it because we wanted to stop at South Mimms for a break and by the time we had finished the satnav had changed its mind and directed us up the M11. After that we had no more trouble until near our destination as we passed RAF Leconheath. There were queues going through Brandon and Swaffham that added another hour on to our journey. We arrived at our cottage at about 16.30. First impressions were good. The place is quiet and clean so we should have a peaceful weekend. We decided to have our dinner indoors with a glass of wine rather than going out. A bottle of wine was provided together with bacon and eggs and lots of little extras. Sunday 3rd June Did not sleep too well, never do in a strange bed although it was comfortable enough? The headboard creaked whenever we moved. It rained during the night. It rained when we were having breakfast and it rained when we left the cottage to go to Titchwell reserve. The satnav took us there alright although it stopped a bit short of the actual reserve entrance. It was raining when we got changed to go round the reserve and we stopped in the visitor centre to see if anything was occurring. Joan bought a waterproof hat. It was raining when we walked along to the hides and we got quite wet with the wind blowing near the seashore. We were able to see a Spoonbill and two black swans. There was also a group of Little Gulls which looked quite stunning in their black and white plumage. Two of the newest hides were built to a modern design which enabled good views over the scrapes but the rain still got in when the windows were opened. I also saw a Bearded Tit when we were walking back to the car park for our lunch. It was still raining after we had eaten our egg sandwiches but we did go out again to the Fen hide. We did not see anything from this hide but we did see a Willow Warbler on the way back. We called in to the visitor centre before leaving and bought a couple of fact sheets on moths and bees. It was still raining when we travelled back but we were luckier than the caravan owners whose caravan was involved in an accident and ended up in the hedge. We went to the Bell Inn in Brisley for our evening meal. The bar meals were filling enough and it was not too busy. It was still raining when we got back to the cottage. Monday 4th June Sunshine was flooding through our bedroom window when we woke up. After breakfast we went in to Fakenham to do a bit of shopping. We had selected Budgens on our satnav but ended up in a Tescos. After we had brought the stuff back to our cottage we set out again to go to Holkham Hall. When we got there and bought our tickets at £12 each plus £2.50 for a car parking ticket we decided to have lunch before going round the house. We had tomato soup followed by a slice of cake which made quite a nice meal. Luckily we got there before the rush as there was a long queue when we went out of the restaurant. When we entered the house through the main doors in to the marble hall there was a crowd of people waiting on the balcony to welcome us in. Actually as we found out they were waiting for a display of 50’s clothing and we also went up on the balcony to watch it. After the first couple of displays we got bored and started our walk round the house. The dining area had a display of Jubilee tea things such as a red white and blue cake and other fancy fairy cakes. This prompted me to ask the question ‘What is the Jubilee celebrating’ of one of the guides. After some discussion with one of her colleagues we came to the conclusion it was her accession to the throne but we did not know if there would be another Jubilee next year to celebrate her coronation. Further on I spotted a display of coronet and robes for one of the Earls and asked the question ‘What do the strawberry leaves on the coronet signify’. They were a bit stumped by this question although they admitted it was not the first time it had been asked. I did not ask any other questions but it was quite a nice stroll through the rooms including the library and state bedrooms. We also went in to the kitchen area where there was a display of 1950’s cooking on a long dining table with nibbles on the way out. After our tour round the house we went out the back to take a photograph which had been recommended at the ticket office and then continued on to the walled garden. The walled garden was some way from the house but its size was impressive and as it sheltered us from the wind was very pleasant. Unfortunately the garden itself was in a poor state but it is gradually being restored to its original condition. It looks however that this may take some time. The weather was dry all day but a cold northerly wind put us off walking any distance. Tuesday 5th June After stopping for a paper in Fakenham we went on to Pensthorpe nature reserve. This is a privately owned nature reserve so we had to pay to get in and we also paid for an escorted tour of the estate. The reserve is owned by the Jordons of natures biscuit fame who have a house on site. We had a quick look round the enclosed aviaries which was useful for photographing birds such as the ‘Bearded Tit’, the Avocet and the Ruff but we had to be back at the visitor centre for the tour to start at 11.10. The tour consisted of a short talk in the lecture theatre followed by a trip in a road train pulled by a landrover in a low gear. We had a running commentary by the driver which was quite informative but the seating was rather restrictive so we saw as much of the interior of the vehicle as the outside scenery. When we got back we returned to our car for our packed lunch then we walked round the reserve. Many of the ducks and geese are tame to varying degrees so it is quite interesting to see them close up but the smell of bird droppings is rather off putting. The walk alongside the river Wensum was very pleasant as we managed to catch a bit of sunshine and it was sheltered from the wind. We did not see any Otters or Voles or big fish in the river but we did see plenty of damselflies and one dragonfly. The walk through the wildflower meadow was also pleasant which was situated on a marshy low lying area near the river but it was full of buttercups, ragged robin, yellow rattle, water avens and plenty of orchids. The orchids were marsh orchids and heath spotted orchids or hybrids of these two. Unfortunately the sky grew darker as we went through the meadow and we thought it might rain so we changed our route to go nearer the visitor centred. The clouds passed over however and we went along by the pond dipping pool to see the red squirrels. The red squirrels are part of a breeding programme to reintroduce them to the area but are in cages at the moment with wire runs connecting all the cages. When we were there one of the squirrels was running furiously backwards and forwards in the wire run seemingly in great distress. Although keeping wild creatures in captivity protects them from predators the restrictions must pose extreme mental cruelty on the animals and this was one extreme example of many that all of the creatures must feel. When we got back to the centre we called in for a piece of cake and a coffee and it was whilst we were eating it that it started to rain so we were quite pleased with our timing. Wednesday 6th June We decided to go to Wroxham for a day on the Broads. The satnav took us towards Norwich, around a bit of the ring road and out again to Wroxham. The traffic was quite heavy round Norwich but otherwise we made good time and the car park was easy to find. We bought our tickets with about half an hour to spare so we walked over the bridge into Wroxham centre and bought a newspaper in a small newsagents. I also bought a few apples from Roy’s which is a local supermarket and then we went back to catch our boat. There was about twenty or so people in front of us in the queue but we only just managed to get a seat on the open part of the top deck. A girl took our photo as we sat down but we had no intention of buying it. As we moved off it started to rain quite heavily and people started to pull down the plastic curtains which did not please me at all. If you are going to sit outside you should be prepared for the weather and it was difficult to see anything through the plastic. Fortunately it stopped raining within a few minutes and they rolled them back up again. The commentary was quite slow and deliberate but the trip was very pleasant in the sunshine with the greenery and water splashing around the boat. We went out of Wroxham with the expensive houses bordering the river and into a couple of Broads before turning back and returning to our mooring. When we got back we had our packed lunch in the car then walked into the town centre to pay a visit to the tourist office. I asked about any local nature reserves and he mentioned Barton Broad but a leaflet he gave us had a mention of Foxley wood which I knew was on the way back so we decided to go there. We got to Foxley wood about three o’clock so we did not have a great deal of time to look around so we went round the shorter of the two routes available. The weather at this time was hot and sunny with very little wind in the woods so we had a very pleasant hours walk. We saw several orchids including a greater butterfly orchid. It did rain slightly on the later stages and as we got near the end we had to hurry because it started to thunder. Fortunately we got back to the car before it started to rain. The satnav took us back to the cottage on a roundabout route through narrow winding lanes but it did get there. We went down to the pub for a meal in the evening. It is pretty basic fare but it fills us up and doesn’t cost much. Thursday 7th June The weather forecast was not too good for today so we decided to go into Norwich. I eventually found the airport park & ride on the satnav and it eventually got us there but it was a few miles from the main road and we had trouble understanding the parking restrictions. Some of them were for RBS personnel cars only and we were not the only ones confused. The bus no 603 was full when we got on so I had to stand all the way. We got off in the city centre and after a bit of orientation found our way to the market and then on to the information office in the new Forum building. Here we got a copy of a self-guided walking tour and set off to walk the walk. The walk took us up to the castle on a mound overlooking the city although it was not high enough to get a bird’s eye view. No doubt we would have a better view if we had paid to get in the castle and climbed to the top but it would have cost us £12 so we declined the offer and walked round the outside instead. The next part of our walk took us to the cathedral where we also declined to pay the recommended donation but we were still able to look round. The tour was quite pleasant but not as informative as some cathedrals we have visited. A male voice choir was practicing whilst we were there and they sounded very powerful due to the cathedral acoustics. Continuing our walk we went to an old part of the city called Elm Hill with old houses and cobbled streets but we had trouble finding our route from there and gave up the walk. Fortunately it was near the end anyway and past our lunchtime. We went back to the centre and quickly found a Costa coffee café where we had lunch. After lunch we walked back to the market area and decided to get the bus back from the bus station. On our route we passed a Pret a Manger and a large Marks & Spencer. We eventually found the bus station and this time we managed to get a seat at the front and top of a double decker bus so we had a good view on our way back to the Airport Park & ride. The car journey back took us on the same back road journey as yesterday but when we got on the back roads I decided to go back on the satnav and it eventually got us on a sensible route. When we got back to the cottage in the afternoon it started raining and rained hard and persistently for some time into the evening. Fortunately we had decided to have our dinner in doors. Friday 8th June Today started off wet and windy and only got worse. This was not altogether a waste of time since we were able to relax in the cottage. The location of our cottage was down a narrow dead end road some distance outside the village of Brisley. It was very remote from habitation and you would be hard pushed to even know it was there. So much so that we were told we need not bother locking our door which we did on the first day and took our key with us but afterwards we just left the key in the door and thought no more about it. The only people we saw besides the owners was a couple of birdwatchers walking down the road as we came back in the car. Unfortunately because of the weather we were unable to explore in the near vicinity of the cottage but we did see a deer on our way out one day. The birds coming to the bird table included a number of Tree Sparrows which are quite a rarity in most parts of the country and once we heard the call of a Turtle Dove. The cottage itself was quite old but the only complaint we had was that the shower was very feeble. Everything was provided including a complimentary bottle of wine and bacon and eggs in the fridge. It was just a pity about the weather. We did go out in the morning to Morrisons in Fakenham in order to fill up with petrol and in the evening we went for a meal at the Bell Inn in Brisley. This was the third visit for a meal during our stay. The food was basic but we never had cause to complain so long as we watched were we sat as the seats were a bit over used.

Sunday, 12 February 2012

New York City Day 4


New York City Day 4
Monday 4th July 2011


We had nothing booked for the morning so after a bit of a lie in we strolled across the road from the hotel to ‘Juniors’ for our breakfast. All our previous breakfasts had been taken in the hotel so this was our first proper New York breakfast and we were not disappointed. What looked like a small café from the street turned out to be a large dining area where you could order virtually anything. When we entered to the reception desk we were immediately shown to a table and given a menu. Although we were in New York we decided to stick to our usual healthy breakfast and had a sundae bowl filled with yoghurt and granola and fruit accompanied by a glass of orange and a coffee. Even so it turned out to be a substantial meal and came to $35 all told. We left feeling confident that we were well set up for the day.
Our thinking for this day was that New York would be very busy on the 4th of July and the temperature promised to be nudging 100 degrees so we decided to spend most of the day in the hopefully cooler Central Park. The route from Times Square took us past the ‘Rockefeller Centre’ and on the spur of the moment we decided to give it a try. The kiosk we stopped at to buy tickets turned out to be credit card only so we bought two seniors tickets for $44 and set off for the ‘top of the rock’ We had to go up an escalator to the second floor where we joined the lines for the elevators; evading the photo opportunities as best we could.
The lines or queues were surprisingly small and we were soon in an elevator going up to the 67th floor. As we set off the lights in the elevator were turned off so we could look up through the glass ceiling to the lift shaft as it sped up to the top floor. Not everyone was impressed but it was a unique experience. The observation deck was in two levels with safety glass panels all round; presumably to deter suicides. The building itself seemed to be constructed of heavy cut stone with cast iron workings at the top which was a surprise as I assumed light materials would have been a priority. Although the temperature was getting a bit warm by this time we spent some time looking at the views which we thought were better than the Empire State building. The views were not significantly different but being lower down you got the impression of being amongst the skyscrapers which seemed nearer on all sides. The return elevator journey was a repeat of the upward journey but we exited at the basement and walked back up to ground level after some time finding our sense of direction.
The rest of the walk to Central Park was easy as we simply walked north up 5th Avenue and entered the Park at its south eastern corner. This is one of the main entrances to Central Park and is the site of a sculpture by the Chinese artist Ai Weiwei. The sculpture consists of representations of the Chinese Year such as the Pig or Rooster and Joan and I had our photos taken standing by our relevant sculpture. Our idea was to walk round the Park in an anticlockwise direction but we only managed to get as far as the Jackie Kennedy reservoir before turning back.
Central Park looks like a natural feature but in fact it was created in 1857 on land to the northern end of Manhattan Island. The hard rock on which the tall skyscrapers are built lies at the southern end of Manhattan but in the park area the land is much softer with occasional outbreaks of the hard schist which have been left as features in the park. The pond, the lake and the reservoir have all been artificially created; the area between landscaped and trees planted. Streets that cross the park, called transverses, have all been sunk below the park level and are crossed by bridges for footpaths and other tracks. Besides the water features the park contains a zoo which we did not visit and Belvedere Castle which we did. Belvedere Castle was built on the highest point in the park as a folly without internal rooms but over the years it has been used as a meteorological station and at the moment as a natural history observatory.
The park is also used for live entertainment and several artists were playing as we walked round including a classical violinist whom we were glad to sit and watch whilst cooling off in the heat.
The main reason for turning back when we reached the reservoir was the heat which was at its greatest as we crossed over to the west side of the Park. We managed to purchase bottles of water as we entered the Park and stopped for an ice cream when we walked down the west side. As long as we took things steady we managed the heat quite well but were glad of the air conditioning when we eventually arrived back at the hotel about 3 o’clock in the afternoon.
When we had cooled down a bit we got ourselves ready to go out for our evening meal at the David Burke Townhouse. We left the hotel at about 17.15 and decided to experience the delights of a New York yellow cab. The hotel had a special area at ground level where cabs could drive through to pick up and set down passengers. In addition they employed people to direct the operations and we duly presented ourselves, with a small piece of paper with our destination written on it, to a tall coloured fellow dressed in red livery. A person of his size was not meant to be messed with so we shut up and waited for our cab to pull up. We did not have long to wait before we got in the back of the cab and the cabbie drove off. He was not the sort of person you engaged in conversation either; not because he was big but because he had his hands full with his mobile phone in one hand and a large coffee in the other. Occasionally he put down his coffee and looked at the slip of paper to confirm his destination. The cab however seemed to know the direction better than he did as it did not take us long to get to the restaurant on 61st between Park Avenue and Lexington.
David Burke Townhouse was the second of the recommendations by Carolyn on board the QM2 and it turned out to be the best. We expected the restaurant to be full on July 4th but when we arrived there were people at only two of the tables. The number did increase as time wore on but the restaurant was never more than half full and we enjoyed the relaxed peaceful surroundings in the air conditioned room. The service was helpful but restrained. We were told that we could have a 42oz steak to share but even 21oz was a step too far.
We had an appetiser of mousse/gazpacho that tasted of mustard and salad cream in a shot glass and got individual bread still warm in the pan it was baked in. For starters I had a salad with walnuts, cheese, apple and croutons. My entrée was of lamb and selected vegetables arranged in a modern cuisine style. For desert I had pineapple baba rum. As a thank you we got two chocolate truffles in a cardboard box to take away. The whole experience was very enjoyable and we walked back to the hotel on a barmy evening with the feeling that New York was a wonderful place.

Friday, 9 December 2011

New York City Day 3


New York City Day 3


Sunday 3rd July 2011

Woke up to thunderstorms and heavy rain which did not look too promising for our trip round Manhattan Island. Nevertheless we decided to carry on regardless and went down for our breakfast in the Starbucks on the fourth floor of the hotel. Whilst having my latte and biscuit I noticed a city gent having his shoes polished on one of those box seats. I have seen them in films and read of them in old books such as those by Charles Dickens but I had never imagined that they were still in use so I had difficulty in taking my eyes away. The well-dressed gent with his suit and tie was reading his newspaper while a coloured man was busy buffing his shoes ready for the day ahead.

We set off in good time to walk the short distance to the ferry terminal which happened to be not far away from where our ship had berthed but we got caught in a heavy shower of rain. This being New York however all we had to do was hand over $5 to an enterprising umbrella salesman who had appeared on the street as if by magic. Buying an umbrella is of course a sure fire way of getting the rain to stop and sure enough it turned to light drizzle after a few minutes and we were able to reach the seafront without getting too wet.

Our ferry was due to leave from pier 83 at the western end of 42nd street with ‘Circle Line’ cruises and although we arrived in good time there was still a long line waiting in the by now familiar cattle barrier formation. We had our photographs taken at the end of one line then re-joined another. Once the gate opened we all moved smoothly on to the boat and it was not long before we moved off. The boat was quite large and consisted of a lower fully enclosed deck with a partially open upper deck. Although the weather was still misty with a light drizzle we decided to stay on the upper deck under the shelter of a canvas canopy where we stayed for the whole trip.

The boat moved out of our berth and down the Hudson River to take an anticlockwise circuit of Manhattan Island but first it made a diversion towards Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. Ellis Island was where all the immigrants to America had to report before entering the country and looked quite welcoming through the drizzle. The Statue of Liberty looked smaller than I imagined but I suppose it is the significance that counts especially if you have been thrown out of your own country. After waiting for everyone to take photographs the boat then returned to Manhattan Island and joined the East River. We had a running commentary during the whole of our trip which was very informative whilst at the same time not too serious which made up for the poor visibility. Many of the larger skyscrapers are around the southern tip of Manhattan where the bedrock is particularly solid and we were able to see them through the gloom. A helicopter took off from a heliport near Wall Street as we passed by and we went under first Brooklyn Bridge then the Manhattan Bridge. We sailed past the Yankee Stadium on our right then the smaller old tower blocks of Harlem on our left before we turned to join the channel taking us round the north side of the island. This channel is not a regular route for boats and the bridges are much closer to the water level. We only just managed to clear one of the bridges and we had to wait for a train to go over a swing bridge before it opened to let us pass through. The northern side of Manhattan is not all built up and there is a fair amount of greenery in this area.

When we reached the Hudson River again we turned south towards our berth passing a small lighthouse that has been dwarfed by a new bridge. Many of the older tower blocks in this area have the circular wooden water towers on the roof which are a mandatory fire protection feature.

The weather slowly improved over the morning and the rain had cleared by the time we got off the boat so we took a leisurely stroll to the Empire State Building on the corner of 5th Avenue and 34th Street. On the way we were looking for somewhere to have our lunch and walking past our hotel we noticed a place called ‘Juniors’ across the road. We had noticed this place as somewhere to have our breakfast but had been too busy to give it a try so we decided to give it a go for lunch. The café or restaurant turned out to be bigger than it seemed from the road and served all American food in all American portions but it was not cheap. We tried not to eat too much as we had booked a meal in the hotel restaurant for the evening but even so we were glad of the walk to the Empire State building to walk off some of the calories.
Our tickets for the Empire State building tour had been provided in advance as part of our Bath travel package but we could use them at any time. When we arrived the queues or lines were almost non-existent but it was a circuitous route to get to the elevators and by the time we reached them there were quite a number of visitors waiting. We had to have our bags checked and our photo taken for the purpose of selling us a souvenir copy even though we had no intention of buying one. We had already bought one from the boat trip earlier in the day. Eventually we got to go in the elevator which took us up to the 80th floor. Then we had to walk a short distance to another elevator which took us to the observation platform on the 86th floor. The sights from the top are certainly impressive but it was still a bit misty and the building is so high that most things seem small in comparison to the building you are on. Empire State was a slang term for New York before the building took it over and since the collapse of the north tower of the World Trade Centre it is once again the highest building in New York.

When our visit had finished and we had found our way out of the building we walked back to the hotel and got ready for our evening meal in the revolving restaurant on the 49th floor. The revolving part actually consists of two floors with a buffet and bar on the top floor and a sit down restaurant on the lower floor. The Bath travel night time tour that was cancelled included a visit to the buffet floor but we had our meal in the sit down lower floor. The restaurant took just over an hour to do one rotation which is about how long it took us for our meal. Our meal was a ‘price fixee’ at $79 each which with the wine worked out about $250. The meal turned out to be very good but the waiter in common with many of the hotel staff were not very helpful which was a pity since all the other people we met were warm and friendly. The hotel at 49 floors is not the smallest tower block in New York but neither is it the tallest and as we were on Times Square several of the nearby towers blocked our view. We did however have a good view of the air conditioning plants and aerials on the roof.

After our meal we went up to the top buffet bar and had a drink sitting at a small bar stool table while the room did a further rotation. The buffet was an eat as much as you want type of place and we watched a group of four youths load up their plates to overflowing then go back to the buffet for a refill. We did not have far to travel back to our room on the 22nd floor and it was not long before we went to bed for a good night’s sleep.

Tuesday, 22 November 2011

New York Day 2


New York – The City Day 2
Saturday 2nd July 2011

The Marriott Marquis hotel is situated between 42nd and 43rd Streets just off Times Square in the middle of Manhattan New York. Times Square is one of the busiest places on the planet with people and vehicles rushing about 24 hours a day. Up in our room on the 22nd floor however all was peace and quiet as we woke up to our second day in the big city. The room was air conditioned like on the ship but the air conditioning was much quieter and with the room being so large you could hardly tell it was functioning. Despite it being the first night in a strange bed we both had a really good sleep and were ready for anything that the city could show us.
Bath travel had organised a free coach tour of the city for the morning so we decided to have our breakfast in the hotel and went down to Starbucks on the 4th floor. I had a coffee and biscuit and tried a piece of Joan’s bagel. When we joined the coach at the front of the hotel we were one of the last to board. Either the rest were early birds or they could not sleep for some reason.
If you imagine Manhattan as the face of a clock and our hotel as the middle the coach went towards nine o’clock then clockwise around the face until returning to our hotel. Our first stop was at Central Park for a look at Strawberry Fields and the John Lennon memorial. In actual fact we parked opposite the apartment block where Lennon was shot beneath the gas lamps then walked into the park and around the landscaped area that is Strawberry Fields. We had an official New York tour guide with us who was very friendly and knowledgeable although the only thing I remember about him was that he was a birdwatcher in his spare time and spent most of it looking at birds in Central Park. Apparently Central Park is a well-known stopping off point for migratory birds and during the winter as many as a hundred different species can be seen at any one visit.
Our next point of call was down Broadway at Trump Tower. This is perhaps one of the finest examples of modern opulence as you would ever see even though we could only visit the ground floor and basement. The toilets in the basement had walls lined with orange marble, mirrors and brass fittings that made it look like an Aladdin’s cave. Next door to Trump Tower is Tiffany’s famous for scenes in the film Breakfast at Tiffany’s. After taking a photo of Joan looking in the window we went inside and had a look at the jewellery. Although members of the public are only allowed on the ground floor, buyers are invited to go up in the security controlled elevator; the items on display are still quite spectacular. We were allowed to take a photo of the yellow diamond that Katherine Hepburn wore in the film.
The coach then took us down through Little Italy and China Town to the southern tip of Manhattan and Ground Zero. On the way we passed by the church which acted as a base for the rescuers and stopped at the newly built Winter gardens to view the construction site. The Winter Gardens is an impressive sight in itself. It is like a large glass enclosed amphitheatre where you enter by the arena and walk up to look through windows at the top of the seating. On the way fully grown palm trees have been planted and the glass entry overlooks the southern shoreline of Manhattan. The view of the building site which is ground zero is not really impressive but it is the memories that it invokes that make it worthwhile. We also had time to walk down to the shore and it was from there that I had my first real sight of the Statue of Liberty although it was some distance away.
Our journey then took us back up the west side of Manhattan to our hotel dropping people off on the way. There was a great deal of traffic at this time for some reason and we were about twenty minutes late arriving back at the hotel
We then went out looking for lunch. During our coach trip someone recommended a place called ‘Edisons’ as a reasonable place to eat which was just round the corner from our hotel so we went there. In an effort to avoid a large meal we decided to have a sweet and something to drink so I had a baked apple and Joan had a Cheesecake. We found the place to be ordinary by New York standards reminiscent of any café in the north east of England. Afterwards we walked up to 51st street and found the Italian restaurant that we had booked for the evening so we would know how to find it later. On our way back to the hotel we called in to a drug store for a couple of books and some biscuits in case we had time in our room.
During our coach trip we had learned that our planned tour for the Sunday had been cancelled due to lack of demand. This threw all our plans into ruin and we had to reorganise our itinerary. We decided to book a meal at the revolving restaurant on top of the hotel as this was due to be part of the original tour and we also booked a round- the- island boat trip for 10am on Sunday morning. Booking anything in New York is a piece of cake particularly in Times Square. There is a dedicated New York tour booking office and there is a theatre booking office built in to the seating ramp in Times Square. Ticket sellers from all the shows walk round the square advertising and selling cheap last minute tickets. It all adds to the atmosphere right up to the theatre opening both in the afternoon and evening.
Our evening meal was one we originally booked on the ship over the Atlantic at an Italian restaurant called ‘Vice Versa’ and we left the hotel in good time to get there by foot. This was really the first time we noticed that the weather was becoming very warm. The temperature never fell below 30degrees centigrade the whole time we were there and the day we left had reached over 43degrees which is over a hundred degrees Fahrenheit. We were therefore glad to get inside the air conditioned restaurant. The restaurant itself had only a narrow façade at the front but opened out inside and had an outside patio at the back which only became used as people came in later in the evening.
I had salad starter and duck pasta for the main meal but we shared a tiramisu for sweet. The food was good and we particularly enjoyed the tiramisu. The whole experience was very enjoyable and Joan was quite surprised to find one of the waiters had a brother living in Sunderland. We walked back to the hotel along a very busy and hot Broadway. It was good to get back into the air conditioned room for a well-earned night’s sleep.